In the past decade, the craft chocolate industry has exploded. Just fifteen years ago there were only about five craft chocolate companies in the country, but today, there are well over 200 (Geller, 2017). Similar to the rise in specialty coffee and craft beer, this small-batch, bean-to-bar chocolate is set to be the next big trend. The growth of bean-to-bar chocolate makers has exposed consumers to more diversity in the world of chocolate. Instead of only having the option to purchase traditional candy bars, we now have shelves stocked full of fine cacao- each bar carrying its own unique flavor and style. One notable characteristic of this movement is the attention to detail in sourcing high quality cacao- highlighting different growing regions around the world through the creation of single-origin chocolate bars. Differing from traditional chocolate production, the bean-to-bar movement has shifted the chocolate industry from accepting impersonal, bulk shipments of cacao to making direct connections with cacao growers, allowing for the exchange of knowledge and technology while encouraging a more equitable split in profits (Hack, 2016). It is for these reasons that we must support the bean-to-bar movement and the small-batch, craft chocolatiers that give it life.
What is Bean-to-Bar?
The term, “bean to bar” is best described as a trade model. It describes the process by which one brand controls every aspect of the chocolate making process: from the purchasing of the beans to actual creation of the chocolate bar. It’s important to note, however, that there is no “official” definition for bean-to-bar, so use of this term is generally open for interpretation. We should expect to see this label and definition evolve over time, as the term itself only originated in the 2000s. Many times, the phrase “bean-to-bar” is thought by consumers to indicate a guarantee of high quality or sustainability, but that is not always the case. Considering that the loose definition is just that the chocolate manufacturers work directly with the cacao producers, many large, industrialized chocolate companies would fit under the “bean-to-bar” umbrella. The difference is that the profit-driven, mass-production models of big chocolate don’t necessarily elicit the same feeling of quality and high standards of fine craft chocolate. This connotation of the phrase with high quality and sustainability is due largely in part to the fact that the companies who practice the bean-to-bar model also care about quality and sustainability. The bean-to-bar movement directly addresses issues of transparency in the chocolate industry by making our food sources more traceable- something that consumers have expressed is important to them. The global turn toward specialty and artisanal products highlights the modern consumer’s preference for products with a traceable origin. It is for this reason that the bean-to-bar movement has been so successful and continues to thrive (Yamada, 2017).
Benefits of Bean-to-Bar
In addition to having a significant impact on the relationship between cacao farmers and chocolate producers, the bean-to-bar movement is playing an important role in protecting cacao growing regions. When cacao growing regions are made popular through the use of their beans in single-origin bars, it provides more of an incentive to nurture and protect those areas. The bean-to-bar movement has also created a market for farmers that are growing in regions that typically produce a lower yield of cacao because the craft chocolate makers don’t typically need the mass quantities of beans that the traditional chocolate industry requires for their mass-produced bars. With craft chocolate, the point of origin is of the utmost importance for the flavor profile and quality of the chocolate, so many craft chocolate makers experiment with smaller amounts of cacao from a larger number of origins. As a result, small cacao farmers are able to stay in business and are offered an alternative to turning to crops that are environmentally devastating (Hack, 2016). In addition, the bean-to-bar movement has provided stability for many cacao growers. Especially in regions like Belize or Colombia where cacao production and sales simply cannot compete with regions like West Africa, the popularization of single-origin bars and the bean-to-bar movement has given exposure, and business, to these regions. If, for example, a single-origin chocolate bar that was made from beans that were grown in Belize were to win an award at a chocolate festival or gain attention in some other form, then other craft chocolate makers would feel compelled to start sourcing beans from that same region. This means more business for the local farmers and more stability within the local communities. It also provides an incentive for them to keep producing cacao which, as previously mentioned, is important for deterring the rise of environmentally devastating crops. This cause-and-effect relationship has had a significantly positive impact on the cacao industry and has given small growers the peace of mind that is financial stability. A final indicator of the value of the bean-to-bar movement is in the improved flavor and quality within the chocolate industry. It’s no secret that craft chocolate and commercialized chocolate, like Hershey’s, tastes vastly different. With more attention given to sourcing and craftsmanship with the bean to bar movement, the unique flavors of each individual bean are fully unlocked and we are left with a better appreciation for the flavors of cacao.
Dick Taylor Craft Chocolate: An Example of Bean-to-Bar
Rural Northern California is home to Dick Taylor Craft Chocolate, a craft chocolate company that was started in 2010 by Adam Dick and Dustin Taylor. Adam and Dustin had previous experience in woodworking and a strong background in craftsmanship, so when they saw a video of the Mast Brothers (another craft chocolate company) making chocolate, they were inspired to try their own hand at chocolate making. What started as a just-for-fun activity quickly blossomed into the successful business that they have today through the rise of the craft chocolate movement. From day one, the concept of craft and attention to detail has been a guiding principle in their business. Having the previous knowledge and experience in woodworking played an important role in this because they knew what it took to produce a quality product with consistency. They had the production methodology down- it was just a matter of what that product was (chocolate in this case rather than wood) that differed. When they started, they knew that the small community of Humboldt County wouldn’t be enough to support the business that they had in mind, so they knew that they would be entering the wholesale chocolate market. They do, however, have plans to expand and strengthen the retail aspect of their business, as shown by their shop that offers chocolate tastings and factory tours in Eureka, California. Early on in their chocolate career, Dick Taylor modeled almost everything that they did after their original inspiration: The Mast Brothers. But after receiving a review that negatively compared the two companies, Dick Taylor quickly switched paths and created their own identity within the craft chocolate industry.
Dick Taylor’s sourcing process is very typical of the bean-to-bar chocolate movement. As a company, they specialize in two-ingredient (organic cacao and organic cane sugar), single origin chocolate bars, so they are constantly looking for new beans and new origins to try. They do, of course, have several customer favorites that have become staple bars, so they have quite a bit of consistency in their sourcing as well. They source their beans directly from cacao farmers, which, as previously, discussed, is beneficial for both the quality of the chocolate bar and the growers themselves. Most of the business that they do happens through meeting with either the growers or representatives of the growers stateside, but cellphones and the access to modern technology in the industry has changed the game. Cacao producers now have the ability to directly reach out to potential buyers and offer samples of their beans. One important practice that Dick Taylor employs is the focus on a high quality supply of beans from fewer origins, which allows for them to form lasting relationships with the farmers that they buy from. With this practice, farmers who previously wouldn’t have had a stable buyer are now dependent on the fact that Dick Taylor will keep coming back to purchase their beans as long as they continue to produce them. Even Dick Taylor’s practice of experimenting with beans from different origins through their limited release bars has proved to be beneficial to farmers because even though they may not be directly purchasing those same beans for the long haul, the production of the specialty bars brings notoriety for the origin and can inspire other craft chocolate makers to begin purchasing beans from that area (Dick & Taylor, 2019).
“THE MOST HANDS-ON APPROACH WE COULD TAKE WAS TO START WITH THE RAW CACAO. WE ARE ABLE TO SOURCE THE FINEST FAIRLY-TRADED CACAO AND PERFORM ALL THE STEPS IN-HOUSE TO TURN THE RAW INGREDIENTS INTO DELICIOUS CHOCOLATE, ALL IN OUR SMALL FACTORY IN EUREKA, CALIFORNIA.”
-Adam Dick and Dustin Taylor
Another aspect of their business that stands out is the way in which they market their product. In their packaging, advertising, and design, the focus is on simplicity. Each bar features a white package with images of boat under construction or boats sailing on the water, eliciting a feeling of quality and craftsmanship that goes back to Dick Taylor’s roots in woodworking. The bars are labeled with the country of origin and sometimes include a map of the cacao growing region from which it was sourced on the back. This helps the consumer feel more connected to the product that they are consuming and is a perfect example of the importance of traceability in the bean to bar movement.The focus has been on directly marketing to the consumers, making each chocolate bar not just chocolate, but an experience. Social media has been a key player for not only Dick Taylor Chocolate, but for the craft chocolate industry as a whole because businesses are able to do their own marketing. The gateway to entry is much lower than it has been in the past thanks to rapid improvements in technology- all it takes is some hard work and determination. As far as selling bars and pushing their product, Dick Taylor also relies on a model of simplicity. Most of their marketing includes finding chocolate shops and other retail stores and sending them samples of their product with the hopes that they’ll want to sell the chocolate in their stores. This has been successful for Dick Taylor and they have seen a lot of growth as a company over the past few years with plans to expand in the near future, but they still remain rooted with their original founders doing it almost all on their own.
(pictured above is the 72% Dark Madagascar Sambirano Bar from Dick Taylor Chocolate. Source: https://dicktaylorchocolate.com/collections/all)
If you have not had Dick Taylor Chocolate, you should certainly give it a try. They offer their small batch, single-origin bars that are made from strictly cacao and sugar, but they also have a collection of inclusion bars with unique combinations of textures and flavors.In addition, they also have a line of drinking chocolate and have started producing specialty baking chocolates. Some of their inclusion bar flavors include their Black Fig bar (a customer favorite), Brown Butter with Nibs and Sea Salt, and dark chocolate with candied almonds. My personal favorite is the Fleur De Sel, which combines the rich flavors of dark chocolate with delicate Guatemalan sea salt.
In conclusion, the bean-to-bar movement is a promising step forward in the chocolate industry. The movement gives more attention to the farmers and fosters a greater appreciation and understanding of the work that they do. Chocolate is such a common luxury in American society that we often don’t think about the origin or they people who had a hand in making it. Thanks to the bean-to-bar movement and the rise of the craft chocolate industry, however, we are able to make chocolate personal and sustainable. Craft chocolate may never be able to beat out the industrialized chocolate industry, but it is certainly making a notable impact. Not only is it shifting the tastes of consumers from candy bars to fine chocolate and rich cacao, but it is improving the lives of cacao farmers around the globe, making the luxury that is chocolate more sustainable.
References :
Dick, Adam, and Dustin Taylor. “About.” Dick Taylor Craft Chocolate, 2019, dicktaylorchocolate.com/pages/process-1.
Dick, Adam, et al. “Dick Taylor Chocolate.” 26 Apr. 2019.
Giller, Megan. “6 Ways Craft Chocolate Is Disrupting The Food Industry.” Forbes, Forbes Magazine, 20 Sept. 2017, http://www.forbes.com/sites/megangiller/2017/09/20/6-ways-craft-chocolate-is-disrupting-the-food-industry/#57b68eb71ca3.
Hack, Kim. “Why Bean-to-Bar Matters.” Cocoa + Co, 12 Jan. 2016, cocoaandco.com/blogs/news/83488388-why-bean-to-bar-matters.
Yamada, Nicholas. “Bean-to Bar Chocolate: What Does This Label Really Mean?” Perfect Daily Grind, 13 Dec. 2017, http://www.perfectdailygrind.com/2017/12/bean-bar-chocolate-label-really-mean/.
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